Whether it is a bespoke suit or a pair of acid-washed jeans, clothes are becoming increasingly important purchases for men – who also have definitive ideas about what they want and how they want to look.

Retailers and brands are recognizing this, too. Whereas men used to come in and let their wives or significant others tell them what to buy – or buy it in their absence – stores today are seeing more men shopping for themselves.

"I'm seeing that men are taking their wardrobe back and having a renewed interest in clothes," confirms Sid Mashburn, whose menswear store has been described as "Atlanta's go-to shop for classic pieces with a modern spin." He credits shows like "Mad Men," music, and new fits as catalysts for men's renewed interest in clothes.

"I remember how much interest there was in men's clothes back in the '60s and '70s and it's back now," Mashburn says. "Men today might see Ryan Seacrest wearing a suit that's tight, and decide they want something like that. They like the idea of wearing plain-front pants and looking like they lost 10 pounds. It's really getting guys in there to take a little time for their wardrobes. The sands are shifting."

Men are more interested in clothes than they were a year ago (48% vs. 43%), according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey. It could be the recession inspired them to take their appearance more seriously. Then again, as Tom Julian, author, trend expert and president of brand consultancy Tom Julian Group points out, with ever more women in the workplace, men are forced to do their own shopping.

Julian says he observed the bespoke trend last fall when he partnered with Nordstrom and Joseph Abboud, visiting five key VIP markets: Orange County, Seattle, Chicago, Atlanta and New Jersey.

"The range of customers [for made-to-measure] included the typical CEO, the young urbane dresser, the athletic male and the modern boomer who did not want to dress old school," he says. "These customers were seeking suits, sport coats/blazers, trousers. I believe once the bespoke guy has had the experience and the right products, he stays with them. He's very dedicated and very loyal."

For the brand or the retailer, that loyalty can add up. Monitor stats show that on average, men own two suits, eight dress shirts and five pairs of dress pants. Depending on the label, the fabric, or where it is tailored, for example, custom suits range in price dramatically - from a low of $500 up to $10,000.

Brooks Brothers' Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer, says men appreciate the bevy of choices custom tailoring provides.

"Our customers select made-to-measure suits for the level of service, a far broader selection of fabrics, and styling details," he says. "We are seeing a younger customer gravitating towards made-to-measure as they find the idea of customization very appealing. For Brooks Brothers, made-to-measure is very much a year-round business."

In addition to true made-to-measure, Brooks Brothers' Suiting Essentials program bridges the gap between custom and ready-made. Customers may select pre-determined styles and customize details such as lapel and pocket details. Prices in the Suiting Essentials collection are comparable and sometimes less than ready-made suits. Brooks Brothers has also made inroads in cultivating a downtown, edgier look through its Black Fleece collection, designed by Thom Browne.

Despite strategic moves like these, retail still saw a downturn in men's suiting as a result of the recession; NPD Group reports sales of men's tailored clothing for the 12 months ending March 2010 totaled $3.7 billion, down 8.4 % over the same year-ago period.

"The off-the-rack suit business is challenging," Mashburn says. "But we still see some health in that. Made-to-measure might also be benefiting from the fact that a lot of stores aren't carrying as much inventory. That means if a man sees something he likes but not in his preferred fabric, he can't go in and go, 'Boom, I'll take this off the rack.'"

Though U.S. suit sales may be down, 53% of men do plan to purchase new apparel in the coming months, according to the Monitor survey. Apparel spending comes out far ahead of entertainment (31%), travel (33%), or electronics (29%).

With summer finally here, too, men might be planning to pick up new casual summer items. Monitor data reveal that a man's informal wardrobe includes 6 pairs of slacks, 12 casual shirts (not T-shirts), and 7 pairs of jeans.

Men may have taken an interest in adding to their wardrobes, but the majority (70%) still uses what they already own and like as their source for new clothing ideas.

"I think the premium or designer jean category and the novelty shirt have both helped to further this man's closet and interest in apparel: once he buys one item, he wants more," says Julian, whose second book, Nordstrom Guide to Men's Everyday Dressing speaks to the subject. "Most men have said to me, 'I don't just dress for work, but for after hours and weekends too.'"

In that respect, they have certainly taken a cue from women.